Balmain recovers in shiny, flowery style from Paris robbery

There were lots of roses—a woman seemingly lost in an entire red bush of them, another with a swoosh of golden feathers with roses on the tips, and a range of rose-print tops, dresses and mini-skirts.

There were more demure smoking jackets and little black dresses, and a selection of polka-dot outfits, before returning to ultra-bling glittering flower concoctions that verged on haute couture extravagance.

"Florals for spring? Groundbreaking..." Rousteing wrote with apparent irony on Instagram.

Dior, Saint Laurent

Highlights so far have included two big names offering contrasting versions of feminism—always a good selling-point at fashion week—with Christian Dior mocking sexist stereotypes while Saint Laurent was inspired by female pioneers.

Also read: All eyes on Gucci as Milan Fashion Week opens

Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who recently dressed Queen Camilla for her state dinner at Versailles, offered a largely monochrome affair with comfortable, breezy items alongside straight masculine jackets, pleated skirts and plenty of knitwear.

But the walls were bright pink and yellow, and plastered in mock sexist slogans from old adverts, such as "Save your marriage—iron properly".

Saint Laurent held a typically opulent nighttime show under the Eiffel Tower with safari-style jumpsuits and cargo trousers, inspired, according to creative director Anthony Vaccarello, by aviation pioneers Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland.

In a palette of burnished gold, ochre and maroon, there was plenty of 1980s glamour with big shoulders, tightly belted waists and aviator shades—even adding the Top Gun theme song "Take My Breath Away" to the soundtrack.

Pierre Cardin, which returned this year for the first time in a quarter-century, had a show full of retro space-age outfits that harked back to its glory days.

But the relatives of Cardin, who died in 2020, are tearing each other apart in court over the inheritance.

"If the brand is sold, it will be the end of the house. I am confident the court decisions will ensure continuity," current boss Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin said backstage.

An even more exuberantly surreal display came courtesy of Germanier, with spectacularly colourful, feathered creations.

Coming later this week are final shows for two big-name designers.

Gabriela Hearst is leaving Chloe after fewer than three years. Her focus on sustainable fashion was critically acclaimed but did not bring a major boost to sales.

It will also be the last show for Sarah Burton, who took over at Alexander McQueen following the founder's suicide in 2010.