By Shubhranshu Singh| Jul 11, 2022
Andy Warhol said, "To be successful as an artist, you have to have your work shown by a good gallery for the same reason, say, that Dior never sold his originals from a counter in Woolworth's." Success is networked, collaborative and functions as a reputational feedback loop
[CAPTION]It is worth remembering that social and professional networks—not mere geography—are what determine anyone's success. Image: Shutterstock[/CAPTION]
Success needs results. Performance needs an opportunity. Often, we see that ordinary talent may go a long way whilst a top talent may fall by the wayside or never get on the road to success. Why does that happen?
How is such a judgement on according credit made?
How is success achieved?
How genuine is acclaim?
Multiple dependencies govern how art, fashion, architecture, politics or even business impact can be judged for individual work. The emergence of collective intelligence on internet platforms has made the stakes higher and the process more accelerated. Still, the more things change, the more essentially they remain the same.
_RSS_First, it is a circular ecosystem. Artists derive prestige from their affiliations with specific galleries and museums; in turn, the prestige of these institutions stems from the perceived importance of the artists they represent and exhibit. Prestige is often as subjective as it is valuable. Invisible, intangible influences have a bearing on assessed value. Where does it start? There were a few major hubs in the world of art, represented by a few institutions that are linked to an exceptional number of other institutions. In this short list are American names such as New York's Guggenheim, Gagosian Gallery, Pace Gallery, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Art Institute of Chicago, and National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC. These are closely linked to European institutions like the Tate, Centre Pompidou, and Reina Sofia. These institutions are the trampolines of artistic success. By showing at major galleries or museums you are propelled towards superstar status in the art world. Fashion is almost the same.
Fashion weeks in New York, Milan, London, and Paris are the big platforms. Fashion labels get a seal of approval here. Buyers, retail chains, and critics all congregate here. For five seasons, as marketing head of Lakme between 2006-2010, I also ran the Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai, and I saw this core ecosystem from an outer circle. I recall Suzy Menkes visiting us and later the investor Ted Forstmann and what that meant in terms of attention worldwide. Haute couture is a twice-yearly five-day show fiesta in Paris where a select handful of brands produce handmade-to-order garments that cost approximately $10,000 to $100,000 apiece. To qualify as a couture house, which is an official designation like champagne, a brand must maintain an atelier of a certain number of artisans full time and produce a specific number of garments twice a year for a show. There are only a few that can fulfil the requirements, including Chanel, Dior, and Valentino. Many such as Balmain, Versace, and Saint Laurent have dropped off over the years and the governing organisation has relaxed some of its rules to admit younger, less-resourced, and guest designers, like Iris van Herpen and Guo Pei.
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There are only a few hundred clients in the world who regularly buy couture, including Middle Eastern royalty and the American Ultra rich. Guests often sit on gold ballroom chairs. At Chanel, the designer Karl Lagerfeld often recreated gardens from around the world as his sets. This is not a club where one gets voted in on mass appeal. Clement Greenberg, a famous art critic in the 1950s, said that art will always be tied to money by an umbilical cord of gold.
It used to be said that you will never have a good art career unless your work fits into the elevator of a New York apartment block. The biggest art hub is Manhattan, and if your work is not on walls there, you could forget about being top-rated.
If you gave most people Rs 680 crores and they had to choose whether to spend it on a 20-bedroom house and a massive estate in the Swiss Alps or a painting by Mark Rothko of two large dark-red rectangles (in May 2012, 'Orange, red, yellow,' circa 1961 sold for $86.9 million when it went under the hammer at Christie’s in New York. ), the overwhelming majority would choose the real estate. We understand the notion of paying for size and location in real estate, but most of us have no criteria or confidence to judge the price for a work of art. We pay for things that can be lived in, driven, consumed, and worn. And we believe in an empirical ability to judge their relative quality and commercial value.
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Does it matter if such assessments are done by a cliquish setup? Surely, it is the best talent that gets to these institutions. It is tempting to conclude that if you want to succeed, all you need to do is move to New York, London, or Paris. But that’s not true. It is linkages within the network, not the cities, that matter. Even in a gallery next door to the Guggenheim, it would be impossible to find exposure or success. Likewise, the failures in Milan or Paris are in the thousands.
Andy Warhol said, "To be successful as an artist, you have to have your work shown by a good gallery for the same reason, say, that Dior never sold his originals from a counter in Woolworth's." Success is networked, collaborative, and functions as a reputational feedback loop, where galleries make names for themselves by taking on big-name artists and big-name artists earn their fame by showing at reputable galleries.
Once you are a named success, it's in everyone's interest to keep you successful. Galleries don't survive without buyers. Buyers want the value to grow. Big collectors sit on museum boards. They donate major works to these institutions. This gets exposure to artists for their personal collections. This ascending spiral only pushes prices northwards. It works because there's no objective way to measure an object's inherent worth. Value in art is a collective opinion. Word of relevant mouth drives it. Ditto for fashion. There is a designer-talent-media-buyer-platform grid within which the entire ecosystem blooms. Gerald Reitlinger, in his 1963 book, The Economics of Taste, wrote that back in 1937, when 18th-century French furniture was all the rage with the ultrawealthy, a desk by Carlin sold for £8,000, or about $700,000 in today’s money. That same year, a Cubist still-life work by Picasso failed to sell at auction for £105.
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It is worth remembering that social and professional networks—not mere geography—are what determine anyone's success. Networks brim with opportunity, partially because they're held together by powerful hubs. No matter the field, discipline, or industry, the harder it is to measure performance, the lesser performance matters compared to network acceptance. There are endeavours such as sports where performance is meticulously and accurately measured. On the other extreme is visual art and fashion, where performance is impossible to gauge. Most professions fall somewhere in between these two extremes. For a lawyer, a marketer, a teacher, or an investment banker, both performance and networks matter to varying degrees.
But even in the methods for assessment, there are wide gaps in judgement at the highest end of achievement. I have been at the highest level of judging for creative awards in advertising. I have seen this for real. It’s not that judges lack expertise, preparation, or thoroughness. They fail because the work they are judging is all excellent. Even the most experienced professionals lack the eye to flawlessly judge the excellent from the extraordinary. Often the differences among top contenders are so tiny that they are nearly immeasurable. At the highest levels, performance is not the deciding factor. There is no certainty of standard. No stopwatch or an assay test. In music, literature, visual arts, cuisine, and storytelling to be ‘in’, the network matters. Reputation is forged at the right venues, contests, literary prizes, magazine listings, columns, and galleries.
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So how does one find the right platform in this vast world? Within six handshakes, I would say.
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The web is a small world because the networks of social and the online universe are fundamentally the same.
Shubhranshu Singh is vice president, marketing - domestic & IB, CVBU, Tata Motors. He writes Simply Speaking, a weekly column on Storyboard18. Views expressed are personal.